The first time I stepped into Gwangjang Market, the sizzle of bindaetteok frying drew me in like a magnet. I sat down, took my first bite of that crispy-on-the-outside, soft-on-the-inside mung bean pancake, and I knew I'd found something special. Ten years later, that taste still haunts me.
Gwangjang Market opened in 1905 as Korea's first permanent market. This 120-year-old institution serves the most authentic Korean food you'll find in Seoul. With 5,000+ shops and 65,000 daily visitors, it's massive. But the real magic happens in the food alleys.
What Makes Gwangjang Market Different
Why's this market so special compared to others?
First, it's not a tourist trap. This is where real Seoul residents eat. Visit at lunch on a weekday and you'll see office workers lining up for bindaetteok, grandmas buying mayak gimbap by the dozen.
Second, the prices are honest. Bindaetteok costs ₩5,000, mayak gimbap ₩3,000 per roll. That's half what you'd pay in Myeongdong's tourist zones.
Third, the communal dining experience. You'll sit elbow-to-elbow with strangers at long tables. A grandmother might teach you how to mix yukhoe bibimbap, the guy next to you might offer you a shot of makgeolli. That's Korean market culture in action.
12 Must-Try Foods at Gwangjang Market
1. Bindaetteok (Mung Bean Pancakes) - The Undisputed King
You can't talk about Gwangjang Market without bindaetteok. These mung bean pancakes—stuffed with pork, bean sprouts, and kimchi, then fried to golden perfection—are the market's signature dish.
Where to eat: Sunhee's Bindaetteok (near Gate 2)
Crispy outside, moist inside. When you bite into a freshly fried pancake dipped in soy sauce, the nutty flavor of mung beans explodes in your mouth. At ₩5,000, the size and thickness are unbelievable value.
Ordering tip: Just shout "Bindaetteok hana!" (one pancake). Pair it with makgeolli (₩3,000) for the perfect combo. Expect to wait during lunch (12-2pm).
Price: Bindaetteok ₩5,000 / Makgeolli ₩3,000
2. Mayak Gimbap - Dangerously Addictive
The name "mayak" means "drug" in Korean. One bite and you'll understand why—you literally can't stop eating these.
Half the size of regular kimbap, they're perfect bite-sized rolls. Packed with sesame oil and seeds for nuttiness, with crunchy pickled radish for texture. Looks simple, but before you know it, you've demolished an entire roll.
Where to eat: Original Mayak Gimbap (near North Gate 2)
This is the real deal. Lines are always long but move fast—about 10 minutes wait.
Ordering tip: Order at least 2 rolls. One roll (10 pieces) is definitely not enough. Takeout available.
Price: 1 roll (10 pieces) ₩3,000
3. Yukhoe & Yukhoe Bibimbap - Peak Freshness
Gwangjang Market serves Seoul's freshest yukhoe (Korean beef tartare). They hand-cut fresh hanwoo beef every morning.
The moment raw beef touches your tongue, the tenderness will surprise you. Mixed with sesame oil, seeds, and raw egg yolk, it creates something truly special.
Where to eat: Buchon Yukhoe (operating since 1965)
This Michelin Bib Gourmand restaurant is run by the third generation. The owner grandmother mixes your yukhoe bibimbap (₩15,000) herself, sharing her secrets: "Mix it like this for the best taste."
Ordering tip: Want just yukhoe? Order yukhoe plate (₩20,000). Want a full meal? Get yukhoe bibimbap (₩15,000).
Price: Yukhoe ₩20,000 / Yukhoe Bibimbap ₩15,000
4. Sundae & Sundae-bokkeum - Comfort Food Classic
Gwangjang Market's sundae isn't blood sausage—it's glutinous rice sausage. Stuffed with sticky rice, vegetables, and glass noodles for a mild, nutty flavor.
Where to eat: Original Naммun Sundae
One plate comes with sundae plus ox head meat, liver, and lung. Dip it in salted shrimp sauce for maximum deliciousness.
Sundae-bokkeum (₩8,000), stir-fried sundae in spicy gochujang sauce, is also hugely popular.
Price: Sundae ₩10,000 / Sundae-bokkeum ₩8,000
5. Tteokbokki - Grandma-Style Spicy Rice Cakes
This ain't your franchise tteokbokki. When grandmas make gochujang sauce from scratch and combine it with chewy rice cakes, magic happens.
The rice cakes are thick and bouncy. The sauce is sweet yet spicy. Comes with fish cakes, boiled eggs, and fried items.
Where to eat: Any tteokbokki stall in the market is good. Just walk in anywhere.
Ordering tip: The assorted platter (₩6,000) gives you more variety than plain tteokbokki (₩4,000).
Price: Tteokbokki ₩4,000 / Assorted ₩6,000
6. Kalguksu - Hot Noodle Comfort
On a cold winter day, nothing beats Gwangjang Market kalguksu (knife-cut noodles).
Made with deep chicken or anchovy broth, hand-cut noodles are chewy and satisfying. Add plenty of kimchi and kkakdugi (radish kimchi) to really warm your soul.
Where to eat: Any kalguksu shop delivers solid results.
Price: Kalguksu ₩5,000 / Sujebi ₩5,000
7. Dakbal - Sweet-Spicy Addictive Feet
Gwangjang Market dakbal (spicy chicken feet) packs serious heat. But it's balanced with sweetness that keeps you coming back.
The fun of picking meat off the bones, combined with that chewy texture. Perfect drinking snack with makgeolli or soju.
Ordering tip: You can adjust the spice level. If you're not used to Korean heat, say "Jogeum-man maepge" (mild spice please).
Price: Dakbal ₩8,000
8. Pajeon - Rainy Day Essential
Similar to bindaetteok but with green onions as the star. Crispy fried pajeon with makgeolli defines Korean drinking culture.
Price: Pajeon ₩5,000
9. Donkatsu - Market-Style Pork Cutlet
A trending menu item. Thick pork cutlet fried fresh to order for just ₩6,000.
Crispy outside, juicy inside. Comes with cabbage salad and rice for a complete meal.
Price: Donkatsu ₩6,000
10. Chapssal Hotteok - Sweet Ending
Sticky rice pancakes filled with brown sugar and nuts. Especially delicious in winter.
When you bite into a freshly grilled hotteok, hot sugar syrup bursts out. Be careful not to burn your tongue!
Price: Chapssal Hotteok ₩1,500 each
11. Pyeonyuk - Classic Drinking Snack
Tender boiled meat dipped in salted shrimp sauce or ssamjang. Perfect soju companion.
Price: Pyeonyuk ₩12,000
12. Jokbal - Chewy Texture Heaven
Gwangjang Market jokbal (pig's feet) is bouncy yet tender. That soft, chewy texture is unique.
Price: Jokbal (small) ₩15,000
Recommended Food Crawl Courses
Course 1: Light Sampling (₩20,000)
- Mayak Gimbap 2 rolls (₩6,000)
- Bindaetteok 1 pc + Makgeolli (₩8,000)
- Chapssal Hotteok 2 pcs (₩3,000) Total: ₩17,000
Course 2: Proper Feast (₩30,000)
- Yukhoe Bibimbap (₩15,000)
- Bindaetteok 1 pc (₩5,000)
- Mayak Gimbap 2 rolls (₩6,000)
- Makgeolli (₩3,000) Total: ₩29,000
Course 3: Drinking Course (₩40,000)
- Bindaetteok 2 pcs (₩10,000)
- Dakbal (₩8,000)
- Sundae (₩10,000)
- Makgeolli 3 bottles (₩9,000) Total: ₩37,000
Practical Tips for Gwangjang Market
Best Times to Visit
- Weekday 10-11am: Fewer tourists, more relaxed
- Weekday lunch 12-2pm: Packed with locals, lively atmosphere but crowded
- Evening 6-8pm: Drinking vibes, competitive seating
- Weekends: Always crowded. Expect waits.
How to Grab a Seat
See an empty spot? Just sit down. No need to ask "Can I sit here?"
At long communal tables, you can order from multiple stalls. Order from each separately, pay separately.
How to Order
Don't speak Korean? No problem. Point at the menu. Most places have photo menus.
Hand gestures work perfectly. Just know numbers: "Hana!" (one), "Dul!" (two).
Payment
Most stalls are cash-only. ATMs are at market entrances.
Some accept cards, but bring plenty of cash to be safe.
Bathrooms
Public restrooms scattered throughout the market. Generally clean.
Luggage
Don't bring big bags. Narrow alleys make it uncomfortable.
How to Get There
Subway:
- Jongno 5-ga Station (Line 1) Exit 8 - 2 min walk
- Euljiro 4-ga Station (Lines 2 & 5) Exit 4 - 5 min walk
Bus: Get off at Jongno 5-ga stop
Hours:
- Most shops: 9am - 11pm
- Food alley: 10am - 10pm
- Many shops closed Mondays
Address: 88 Changgyeonggung-ro, Jongno-gu, Seoul
Important Notes
- Touts: Some vendors actively call out to customers. Politely decline if you feel pressured.
- Price Check: Confirm prices before ordering. Scams are rare but better safe.
- Spicy Food: Not used to Korean spice? Say "An maepge juseyo" (not spicy please).
- Hygiene: Street stalls but hygiene is generally good. Don't overthink it.
FAQ
Q: Do they speak English? A: Basic English works. But pointing at menu photos is faster.
Q: Vegetarian options? A: Bindaetteok, pajeon, tteokbokki, gimbap can be vegetarian. Ask for "no meat" when ordering.
Q: Is it okay to go alone? A: Absolutely. Communal seating makes solo dining natural.
Q: How much time should I plan? A: 1-2 hours is plenty. Plan 2 hours if you want to sample multiple stalls.
Q: Can I bring kids? A: Yes, but strollers might be challenging in narrow alleys.
Final Thoughts
Gwangjang Market offers Seoul's most authentic Korean food experience. The smell of bindaetteok frying, grandmas' skilled hands making mayak gimbap, laughter from people drinking at long tables—it all creates Gwangjang's unique atmosphere.
It might feel overwhelming at first. But take courage, grab a seat, and shout "Bindaetteok hana!" From that moment, you're part of Gwangjang Market.
In this 120-year-old market, taste what Koreans have eaten for over a century. Gwangjang's food is more than just meals. It's Seoul's history, Korean daily life, and culture we've preserved for generations.
Come hungry. Eat everything!
